From May to August every year, hundreds of thousands of cuttlefish spawn along the coastline near Whyalla. The spawning area is readily accesible to divers, and it's a unique experience cruising through the hordes of cuttlefish who seem unconcerned by your prescence as they get on with displaying and mating all around you. The gear hire here is dirt cheap too- the local dive shop is primarily a commercial diving operation and Tony the owner isn't worried about making much money off recreational divers. My two dives end up costing me $20(!) so I decide to buy a new set of fins, and pay $110 for a pair that would have cost me $185 in a Sydney retailer.
In the afternoon we speed down more deserted highways, and heading south, the desert landscape gives way to scrub, then wheat fields. We turn off at Lipson Cove, where we camp for the night at the nearly deserted beach.